Old Wood Sign

DIY OLD PALLET WOOD SIGN
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Fun quote painted on to old wood and hanging by the front door. #home

Stanley-National Hardware 2in x 1/2in Brass mending brace. 4-Pack $1.87 at Lowes

Fonts!! (These are not exact. I did not trace them on to the wood. I just looked at the fonts on the computer and free handed them)
Home: Hand drawn bubble letters.
is, my, of, are: Cheerful Script
Wherever: Frenchy
Bunch: Code Light
Crazies: Toast & Eggs

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DIY Chevron Dresser

DIY CHEVRON DRESSER!!

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Ever since I finished my First Dresser I was itching to do a second one. Especially since I mounted my TV and had to cover the awful cords hanging down, plus I had no where to put my DVD player and AT&T receiver. Since my last dresser was short and long I knew I wanted to find a skinny tall one. This one I found on Craigslist for $50 but got the price down to $40!!

Wall Art

DIY WALL ART
Wall Art
Spray paint lace imprint and fun quotes. Coral and Mint, Love it

Monogram

DIY MONOGRAM!


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Foam board Monogram for my room door. Me and my two other roommates all have them on our doors 🙂

What you will need:

– Dollar Store Foam Board

– Razor blade

– colored pen

– tape

– Large print out from Office Depot

STEP 1: DESIGN MONOGRAM

If you have photoshop and you know how to use it, great! Do that. I just used plain old Microsoft Word on my Mac book. I used the font Monogram KK, click the link to download it for free.

Once you print the monogram as big as it can be on a plain sheet of computer paper, take it in to office depot, office max, etc. to get an enlarged copy. I went to fed ex and it was like $4 each!! I’ve heard Office Depot does it for half that. Cut the paper down to where it will fit on to the foam board and tape it to make sure it is secure and will not move.

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STEP 2: TRACE

With a colored pen trace around the letters just a little bit wider than the font. This will make it more sturdy and allow for a few mistakes. I used a colored pen so that I could tell easily where I had traced. When tracing you want to trace it firmly so that you get the imprint in the foam board. Look closely at the picture below to see the imprint. If you think that would be too hard to see you can use tracing paper or carbon paper in-between the foam board and large copied monogram. I didn’t have any handy so this worked just fine for me.

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STEP 3: CUT

With your razor blade carefully cut through both sides of the foam board. Have a few extra razors on hand because you want a sharp blade for more accuracy. You can flip the board and cut from the back too If the first cut didn’t go all the way through. I have heard the dollar store foam boards are easier to cut through since they are cheaply made and the paper on each side of the foam is thinner.

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STEP 4: COVER
Mine is no where near perfect and the edges were pretty rough and jagged if you look closely. My roommate’s was a lot cleaner and she spray painted hers, it turned out great. I decided I wanted a print so I covered it. Luckily the cover hid a lot of the imperfections 🙂 I got decorative napkins and pealed the decorated layer of the napkin off so it would be thinner. I used Spray Adhesive and sprayed the entire monogram and let it sit for about a minute then layed the pieces of napkin on the monogram, making sure to align the pattern. Smooth over the napkins to make sure they are attached to the monogram and there are no air bubbles. Turn the monogram over, and cut through the napkin in the spaces of the monogram. Spray the spray adhesive and fold the cut napkin up on to the back of the monogram to secure it. Continue until all edges are covered.

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ALL DONE! I used sticky tack to hang mine on my room door. The K and the T are very sturdy since they are attached at the top and bottom but the M was falling all over the place so that letter just needed a little bit more sticky tack.

GOOD LUCK WITH YOUR PROJECTS!!

Much Love,

-Feelin’ Crafty.

Shoe Wall

DIY SHOE WALL

SW

Four shelves next to the closet to display and showcase your shoes!

Twinkly Lights and Bookshelves as Headboard

DIY TWINKLY LIGHTS “HEADBOARD”

Twinkly Lights and Bookshelves as Headboard

Four RE 31″ bookcases with sheer curtains and Christmas lights behind. Super cute and cheap way to dress up the bed without a headboard. plus lots of storage!

DIY Crate Coffee Table: Pop-of-Color version

Crate Coffee Table: Pop-of-Color Version

Crate Coffee Table: Pop-of-Color version

This project was one of the very first projects I decided on doing, but with the process of moving it took forever to finish. I would work on it here for a little bit, then a few days later work a little bit more, and so you get the point. If I would have just sat down and finished it, It probably only would have taken a day or two. For the flower centerpiece, I have that “how-to” in the post before this, or just click the link. Its super easy and I think it looks great in the awkward hole in the middle 🙂

ITEMS YOU WILL NEED:

– 4 craft crates (Michael’s, JoAnn’s) $11.99 each; I got mine on sale for $6.99 each at JoAnn’s)

– small craft wood ($2.00; I found it hanging right above the crates in JoAnn’s)

-27.4″ x 27.4″ square of plywood ($8.oo at Home Depot)

– 12 1-inch screws (had these laying around)

– Drill bits (borrowed a co-works)

– 4-pack of Casters ($19.97 at Home Depot, Perfect Home 4in. industrial casters)

– Stain ($3.00; I made my own from steel wool, apple cider vinegar, and coffee grinds. see below)

– paint sample (approx. $3.00 at home Depot)

– 2 in paint brush. (had one laying around)

So all together this project cost me about… $60!!

PRE-STEP: MAKE STAIN

This step is totally optional. If you would like, you can buy your own stain and skip this step all together. I made my own and I think it turned out great. And I even used the left over in a second project (more to come on that one later!) OK so to make the stain get a mason jar or some thing that will seal tightly. Plug your nose, and pour the apple cider vinegar into the jar, about 2 1/2 cups (the whole amount for me). I used organic but I don’t think that matters too much. Then put in one steel wool pad. Not Stainless steel, Not steel wool with soap in it.. Plain ol’ Steel wool. Which is impossible to find by the way. I had to buy a 12 pack from Home Depot just to have 1 pad… so if anyone needs some steel wool hit me up haha. Alright back to the stain. Next put in a Tablespoon of ground coffee and close tightly. shake it up and let it sit for a few days. like 3 should be good. Give the jar a good shake like once or twice a day. After 3 days test your stain on the small piece of wood. It darkens with time, this picture is the next day, but it’ll reach maximum darkness after a week. This wood made it look kind of gray, so I was a little worried, but the coffee table turned a really pretty rich brown. In the mean time though you can start on the next steps.

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STEP 1: PAINT!

I love mint and coral together, so I thought it would be awesome to paint the insides that way. For the mint I primed the inside first with just one coat and then when dried I painted on the turquoise. I would suggest to NOT DO THIS. It just gives you more opportunity to mess up and the stain will not cover painted areas. I painted two mint and two coral. For the coral boxes I didn’t use any primer and the color is still vibrant and not as near as many mess-ups. This is the same coral color I used in my Revamped GoodWill Dresser, my Wall Art, and my DIY Chevron Dresser!

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trying to see what it will look like when done 🙂

STEP 2: STAIN

Use store bought stain, or the one you just made. Place boxes on a flattened cardboard box or some kind of covered surface. With a 2 in paint brush, dip it in the stain and brush onto the outside of the crates. Brush with the grain of the wood. The more coats you use the darker it will be. I used one coat. Don’t forget about the front, handles, and sides of the slates. The outside bottom of the crates do not need to be perfect because they are not seen, since that faces the interior of the coffee table. Pick whichever sides look best, and arrange the table to where those sides are showing. Another option would be stain first then paint. I guess in that case you would have to prime before you paint. Or not paint at all, just stain the inside and outside.

STEP 3: ATTATCH THE CRATES

Once the stain is dry, align the crates in a “circle” with the opening facing outward. Now that your crates are on their sides with the opening facing towards you, the “bottom” of the crate is now the “back” of the crate. Drill a screw from the inside of the mint crate at the back top Left corner. This will attach to the top right corner of the inner short side of the coral crate.  I really hope that made sense, and I really wish I had a picture to show you what the heck I am talking about. Explaining it is harder than actually doing it. I guess because I am a very visual person? Anyways, The second screw will go about 7 inches to the right of the first screw. If you go too far to the Right, you will not screw into the other crate, but into the hole in the middle of the coffee table. Which will do nothing for you. With the third screw, screw it in to the bottom slate of wood in between the top two. Repeat this process four times for each crate, so that all the crates are connected. Phew! Now give your self a pat on the back.

STEP 4: TOUCH-UP

Nobodys perfect, and your stain will drip on the inside of the crates. oops. Its ok! just paint over it. No one will ever know.

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STEP 5: BASE BOARD AND CASTERS

Place your attached crates onto the 27.4″ x 27.4″ piece of plywood and mark in between the slates of wood as close to the four corners of plywood as you can. This is where you will drill the holes in the plywood, for the casters to screw into. I didn’t want to have to drill holes in to the crates as well, and I don’t mind the screw sticking out in-between the slates of wood. Remove your attached crates, and take your marked piece of plywood outside to drill a hole into each corner of the plywood where you marked it. The hole should be about 80-90% the width of the caster screw, so pick a drill bit accordingly. Screw in your casters to the holes, if it is too difficult then make the holes a bit bigger. But not too big. You want it to screw into the wood not slide in. The pack of casters I got had two wheels with breaks and I put those on opposite corners, I don’t think it really matters, especially since mine is on carpet.

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STEP 6: ALL DONE!

Take your piece of plywood with attached casters inside, and place it where you want your coffee table to be (caster side down). Place your attached crates on to the plywood with the screws sticking out in-between the slates of wood. AND YOUR DONE! The screws will be sticking out of the wood, unless you used the bumpers that came with the casters, then it may not be. I don’t mind the screws sticking out, and it keeps the coffee table in place since the screws are in-between the slates of wood.  If you really want to, I’m sure you can drill the coffee table into the plywood or glue it to make it more secure, I like that It can detach, maybe it’ll be easier for moving purposes. If you do decide to use the bumpers then your coffee table will be taller.

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Final dimensions are 27.4″ W x 27.4″ L x 18″ H

GOOD LUCK WITH YOUR PROJECTS!

Much Love,

-Feelin’ Crafty